Catalog accompanying the exhibit, "El Camino Real: Un Sendero Historico" Developed by the Camino Real Project in cooperation with the Latin American Institute, University of New Mexico, with generous support from the National Endowment for the Humanities The following is a list of captions replicated from each of the 36 panels of the exhibit. Un Sendero Historico During the colonial years, New Mexico was tied to the outside world by a single thoroughfare that descended the Rio Grande valley from Santa Fe, dropped through the natural gate at El Paso, and wended its way via the provinces of the old Viceroyalty of New Spain to Mexico city, twelve hundred miles to the south. This artery of commerce and travel was known as El Camino Real, which meant the Royal Road, or King's Highway. Actually the term was applied to all main government roads both in Spain and in the New World colonies. Informally, New Mexico's Camino Real was known as 'the road to the interior', el camino de tierra adentro, because the frontier was regarded as the interior country. Of the great highways leading north, this was the oldest, having been extended by segments throughout the 16th century. For a time it also enjoyed the distinction of being the longest road in North America. Parts of the Camino Real had their earliest beginnings as Indian trails. Later, sections of the route were traversed by Spanish conquistadors. Finally, with the coming of Juan de Onate's expedition in 1598, the full length of the trail was defined. During the subsequent 300 years it witnessed increasingly varied traffic as quantities of trade goods and representatives of different cultures travelled it, bringing with them currents of change which would forever alter the face of this land. Largely forgotten in modern times, New Mexico's Camino Real needs now to be recognized and valued as a richly informative cultural and historic resource. This is its story. The discovery of the "New World" by Christopher Columbus in 1492 began an historic era of exploration, conquest, and exploitation. Although he was an Italian from Genoa, his expedition set forth in the name of Spain, as the only receptive ears he could find in his search for a patron were the monarchs of Spain: Ferdinand and Isabella. Technically speaking the venture was a failure, for Columbus' goal of reaching the Orient by crossing the Atlantic did not account for the great obstacle in his westward path: The Americas. The greatest winner of Columbus' discovery of America was the Spanish Crown, whose involvement in the New World would create and support a vast empire for centuries to come. After over two months at sea, Columbus' three-ship expedition sighted land on October 12, 1492. The island of San Salvador in the Bahamas is commonly regarded as the first land sighted by Columbus' crew. Columbus returned the following year with seventeen ships and well over a thousand Spanish settlers. The "Admiral of the High Seas" would return to the New World twice more, but before this fourth and final crossing he was stripped of his title of Viceroy of the Indies for his inability to properly administer the new Spanish territories. By 1496, Santo Domingo (modern capital of the Dominican Republic) was established as the first municipality in the New World. From this island base, and later Havana and Santiago de Cuba, the Spaniards would proceed to explore the mainland of South and Central America. In November of 1518, Hernan Cortes sailed from the port of Santiago de Cuba to carry out the conquest of Mexico. In the spring of 1519, a runner reported to the Emperor Moctezuma that 'two floating mountains' and strangely dressed men had appeared on the coast of Mexico. Attracted by bountiful gifts sent by the Aztec emperor, Moctezuma--gifts meant to appease the Spaniards and turn them back--Cortes and his six-hundred men stayed on to found the port of La Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz. From there an expedition marched on the highland heart of the Aztec Empire, Tenochtitlan, the site of present day Mexico City. At first forced to retreat, Cortes returned later to the capital with numerous Spanish reinforcements and Indian allies and, after a five-month siege, defeated the new Aztec leader Cuahtemoc. Thus, the stage was set for the establishment of the Vice- royalty of New Spain. A Day of Marvels Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca was appointed to the Panfilo de Narvaez expedition in 1527, which came to a disastrous end in Florida. Cabeza de Vaca and three companions, the only survivors, found their way back to Mexico after eight harrowing years, having traversed the unknown wilds of Florida, Texas, and northernmost Mexico. The marvelous tales of Cabeza de Vaca's wanderings caused much excitement. The Spaniards were spurred on to new conquest. There! just over the next horizon! they were sure, lay more wealth and more exotic civilizations waiting to be conquered. In 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado set off for Arizona, accompanied by 292 men, 1300 Indian allies, several friars, 1,000 horses, 600 pack animals and supplies. Coronado's men were the first to see the Grand Canyon, to explore Hopiland, and to penetrate as far east as Kansas. Coronado's expedition spent the winter of 1541-42 near present-day Bernalillo south of the great 1,200 room pueblo of Kuaua. Soon their arrogant conquerors' assumptions brought them into armed conflict with the Indians. The Coronado expedition returned to Mexico, their hopes shattered, for they had entered 'the great wilderness' and 'seeing nothing were down-hearted.' By the mid-1570's, the rich mining district of Parral in southern Chihuahua had been settled and served as a staging area for future explorations. In Santa Barbara in 1581 Fr. Agustin Rodriguez heard of an advanced civilization to the north. Given official permission to evangelize, he set off in 1581 with a small party under the command of Captain Francisco Sanchez Chamuscado. The party reached the vicinity of Socorro in August and for the next five months explored the Rio Grande pueblos. Leaving behind two priests to continue religious conversion, the main party returned in 1582. The Spaniard Antonio de Espejo, caught up in the excitement caused by the returning Chamuscado-Rodriguez expedition, decided to personally underwrite the costs of an expedition. In 1582, he led a small group to New Mexico, only to learn that the friars he had hoped to succor had been killed. The reports, written by Espejo, and by expedition member Diego Perez de Lujan upon their return to Mexico, added to a growing fund of information about the pueblo people of New Mexico. In 1590, the bold Portuguese adventurer, Gaspar Castano de Sosa, persuaded the entire population of the failing mining camp of Almaden (near Monclova, Coahuila) to follow him to this coveted new land which, he promised, would legally become theirs. The Viceroy, hearing of Sosa's unauthorized departure, sent Captain Juan Morlete in pursuit. Morlete caught up with Sosa at Santo Domingo Pueblo and marched his party back to Mexico, returning southward along the Rio Grande. The first wheeled vehicles to pass over this section of the Camino Real left tracks which were seen eight years later by Juan de Onate. Don Juan de Onate, Colonizer of New Mexico Philip II, King of Spain, instructed the Viceroy of Mexico to find a man to pacify and colonize New Mexico. In 1595, Don Juan de Onate was officially granted the right to conquer New Mexico. Onate, scion of a wealthy family and a seasoned soldier, hoped to discover new wealth and to enjoy a brilliant future as its governor. In the spring of 1598, Onate was finally able to get his caravan under way, leading the way for 129 men--many with their families and servants--and a small group of Franciscan friars, as well as 84 heavily loaded carts and vast herds of livestock-- sheep, goats, cattle, horses. Blazing a new route scouted by his nephew, Vicente de Zaldivar, the expedition struggled northward across the Chihuahuan desert. In one place, the expedition, suffering from great thirst, was providentially saved with a miraculous downpour "so heavy that very large pools were formed and more than seven thousand head of cattle and mares of all kinds drank." The exhausted travelers finally reached the Rio Grande and on April 30th Onate took formal possession of New Mexico, saying: "I claim these lands without limitations, including the mountains, the rivers, valleys, meadows, pastures, and waters ... pueblos, cities, towns, castles ... in the name of the King." Passing through the narrows near San Felipe Pueblo, Governor Onate arrived at the Pueblo of Santo Domingo and, on July 7, held a council with the Indians of the surrounding country. In a ceremony they must have poorly understood, the native leaders swore allegiance to the Spanish Crown and Church. Later expedition member Gaspar de Villagra wrote an epic poem about the conquest. When Onate and his men entered the first villages of the Pueblo Indians, some fled at his approach while others demonstrated a restrained friendliness. At the adobe community of Teypama, the headman provided the hungry newcomers with an abundance of corn. Onate christened the place, Socorro, in gratitude for the aid he had received. By July 11 the Governor and his companions had reached the Tewa-speaking pueblo of San Juan as they renamed it. Here he established his military headquarters and the capital of his grandly proclaimed Kingdom of New Mexico. A short time later, Onate moved his settlers to the west bank of the Rio Grande and founded the first formal municipality west of the Mississippi, La Villa of San Gabriel. It remained the official terminus of the far-flung Camino Real. In 1610 Santa Fe was established as the new capital and the end of the King's Highway shifted to its plaza. By then Juan de Onate had resigned as governor of New Mexico and returned to Zacatecas. He left behind a well-marked road as a monument to his pioneering achievement. He deserves to be remembered as the "Father of the Camino Real". Through Desierto and Bosque The northern portion of the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro traversed some of the most desolate and rugged terrain in Western North America--a region of sparse vegetation, occasional springs and rare perennial streams, of climatic extremes, erratic precipitation, high winds, low humidities, and intense solar radiation. Various environmental factors--terrain, water, vegetation-- played a role in the route, the rate of travel, the locations of the parajes (encampments), and the mode of transportation. Creosotebush, whitethorn acacia, saltbush, mesquite, and in some places yucca, and agave dominated the landscape. Gramma and other grasses provided forage for the livestock. Nearing Socorro travelers entered the cool shade of the bosque, the extensive canopy forests of valley cottonwoods with an understory of willows and salt grass, which lined the banks of the Rio Grande. The bosque provided fuel wood, and shelter, the river a dependable water supply. Near Santo Domingo Pueblo the road left the edge of the river and cut across a plain dotted with pinon trees. At La Bajada volcanic escarpment the route divided: one branch either scaled the steep 900' black basalt cliff or followed the Santa Fe river, while the other wound its way up the Galisteo arroyo then turned north entering the area of Santa Fe by this more gradual means. A number of mammals which provided travelers with meat were found along the route. On the semi-desert grasslands were the black-tailed rabbit and pronghorn antelope. The desert scrub supported mule deer, desert cottontail, and desert bighorn sheep. The buffalo which was later to play such an important role in the local economy grazed at some distance from the route of the Camino. Along the major stream valleys and on the lagunas were sandhill cranes, and varieties of ducks and geese. Whenever possible flat or gently sloping terrain with a firm footing was chosen for the trail. In some places hills of deep sand delayed travel and were negotiated only by doubling the teams. The huge sand dunes, Los Medanos de Samalayuca, south of El Paso, provided an almost impassable barrier. Heavily loaded vehicles were often routed via San Elizario--a two day detour. Dreaded jornadas were inhospitable, waterless stretches which often required forced marches and night travel. The jornadas of Jesus Maria and Cantarecio lay below El Paso. The Jornada del Muerto lay north of the Robledo encampment. A 90 mile stretch virtually devoid of water, it provided little shelter or fuel. Caravans usually came north in the spring and returned south in autumn. Twelve miles a day was an average rate of travel for a cart and wagon caravan. The journeys between Mexico and New Mexico took months to complete. Today we can hardly appreciate the physical effort and detailed planning such a trip would demand. From an 1874 army report: "Of wild animals, the grizzly, brown and black bears, panther, wild cat, weasel, large and small wolves are the most important. Black and white-tailed deer, as well as antelope, are abundant in the mountain regions. Swan, pellicans, wild geese, brant and almost every species of duck abound on the river, as well as hill cranes, blue herons, bitterns and several species of snipe. At some distance from the post, and principally in the mountains, are found turkey, quail and blackbird." Ancient Trails A network of ancient Indian Trails predated the Spanish Camino Real. By this means the Puebloan world received its cultural contacts and maintained a complex of trade patterns with neighboring tribes and with the greater Mesoamerican world. The West Mexican Interior Trail connected western Mesoamerica with the sophisticated Chalchihuites culture of Durango and Zacatecas. This route joined a much traveled interior trunk line which brought goods from the west coast of Mexico. Sometime after A.D. 1000 the West Mexican Interior Trail was linked to the great trading center of Casas Grandes in western Chihuahua, which flourished during the 13th and 14th centuries. It quickly became the primary redistribution center for the goods moving into the upper Southwest. One of the important northern segments of the Casas Grandes Trail was the Rio Grande Pueblo Indian Trail extending from around El Paso to the upper Rio Grande. By the end of the 15th century Casas Grandes was in ruins and its roadways fell into disuse. However, the Rio Grande segment remained intact and quickly became incorporated into a second interregional trail system. As Casas Grandes declined, vigorous trading communities arose in the mountain valleys of northern Sonora. About mid-14th century, these became anchor points in a trail connecting the Southwest with western Mesoamerica. Within a century this West Mexican Coastal Trail was the major route from the Mexican heartland to the basin and range country of southeastern Arizona and to southwestern New Mexico, with its northern terminus at modern Zuni. Two major trunk lines connected this route to the Rio Grande Pueblo Indian Trail. These ancient trade routes supplied Southwestern Indians with important trade goods. Up from the south came marine shell, parrot and macaw feathers, and copper objects (particularly copper jingle bells). Down the trails from the Southwest went turquoise, peridot, serpentine, garnet and other semi-precious stones, pottery, salt, meerschaum, alibates flints, processed bison products and perhaps slaves. Indian trails quickly attracted Spanish attention, and Spanish parties began using them for slave trading raids as early as 1530. Later the Spanish expeditions marched over these routes in their conquest of the Southwest. When the Spanish established control of New Mexico the Rio Grande Pueblo Indian Trail became the upper part of the Camino Real. The Pueblo Way of Life Between A.D. 1300-1325 the prehistoric population congregated into larger pueblos along the Rio Grande. Many of the villages founded then were ancestors of Puebloan communities which the first Spaniards encountered, some of which survive to this day. The pueblo peoples developed a rich and expressive culture which was mirrored in their religious beliefs and practices, in their arts and crafts. Emphasis on a ceremonial expression of the cycles in the natural world played a central role in Pueblo beliefs. Their sacred dances assured its perpetuation, as did observances held in underground kivas. Sacred and temporal expressions were intricately bound together in this unifying world view. The first pueblos only contained 10-50 rooms, but by the early 1400's villages had grown in size and by 1425 some very large pueblos with hundreds of rooms were built. When the Spaniards arrived there were more than 130 pueblos. This society was supported by sophisticated agricultural practices which included irrigation networks along the low-lying Rio Grande floodplain. Corn, beans, melons, squash and herbs were all cultivated. In good years the surplus was traded for meat and hides from neighboring tribes. Domestic turkey supplemented deer, buffalo, bighorn sheep and other large game, but community rabbit hunts provided the most common meat. Locally grown cotton was woven into fine sashes, mantas and everyday clothing. Well-made handicrafts of all kinds--pottery, basketry, worked turquoise mosaic, and other luxury goods were traded over a large area. It was this multi-lingual deeply religious culture which the Spaniards encountered when they came marching up the Camino Real. The Great Missions Franciscan priests accompanied the first Spanish explorers to New Mexico. Once the government was established, priests were assigned to each pueblo. They soon put the natives to work building churches whose soaring dimensions reflected their vaulting ambitions. The friars introduced new tools--hammers, mallets, wedges, augers, chisels, saws--and new building techniques. Blacksmithing was one of these important new technologies-- forges were built and Indians taught to use tongs, sledges, vises, files, and punches. The friars also brought rich furnishings for the churches they were building--rich priestly vestments such as chasubles, amices and albs, and churches furnishing such as chalices, paintings and statues. Music, not the force of arms, proved to be a more persuasive means of soothing and converting the Indians of the New World to Catholicism and Spanish rule. Plainchant (plainsong) was taught by the friars as an integral part of the first New Mexico mission liturgy and musicians were taught to play shawms (bassoons), military snare drums, trumpets, violins. As early as 1630 there was a portable organ in the church at Senecu. None of these instruments survived the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. Since few exploitable resources had been found in this distant kingdom, a royal subsidy supported the Franciscan missionary effort. From 1609 an official caravan came north from Mexico City every three or four years to resupply the missions and sustain the economy of this far flung province. In practice this caravan was more than a missionary supply service. It served as a vital but tenuous link between the civilization at the heart of Mexico, and that distant outpost of empire, New Mexico. "Oh God! What a lonely land!" During the 17th century the Indian population of New Mexico was undergoing rapid acculturation and native religious, political and economic institutions were under brutal attack. Forced to pay tribute, to work for both secular and religious officials, subject to raids by Navajos and Apaches, visited by famine, drought and imported diseases, and asked to deny their own religious beliefs--these caused an increasing resentment among Pueblo Indians. In 1675, Governor Trevino ordered 3 Pueblo medicine men executed and others severely punished. This became a rallying point for Indian nationalism. The Indian leader Pope, one of those cruelly treated by Spaniards, forged a secret alliance of all the pueblos. On an appointed day Indian warriors attacked all the Spanish missions and towns, killing 21 priests and 400 colonists. Santa Fe was besieged and Gov. Otermin barely escaped with a band of colonists, while the Lt. Governor of Rio Abajo fled south along the Camino Real with many settlers. These two groups of frightened, ragged refugees met at Fray Cristobal and were given desperately needed supplies by a relief column coming north. Continuing southward, the 2400 Spaniards and Indian allies finally came to exhausted rest at La Salineta. From there they were moved to El Paso, where three new towns were established downriver from the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. From El Paso both Governors Otermin and Cruzate made unsuccessful attempts to reconquer New Mexico. In 1692, however, the aristocratic don Diego de Vargas Zapata Lujan Ponce de Leon y Contreras started boldly up the Camino Real to reconquer the territory. Arriving in later summer, Vargas was able to enter Santa Fe peacefully. He soon returned to El Paso to organize a recolonizing effort. In the fall of 1693 he came back up the trail with 100 soldiers, 70 families, 18 Franciscans and 900 heads of livestock. This time Santa Fe did not surrender without a fierce fight. By the end of the 17th century, however, New Mexico was again securely in Spanish hands. "Oh God!" Vargas once wrote, "What a lonely land!" Vargas mentions the Camino Real in a document: Immediately after, in the plaza of the abandoned pueblo of Cochiti, on the morning of the eleventh of the present month of September, because I was far from the pueblo they call Santo Domingo, and the opinion held in the pueblo of El Paso was that it was inhabited by many Indians, and nearby on the Camino Real that goes to the villa of Santa Fe, I, the governor and captain general, ordered that the men-at-arms of my company remount. Don Pedro de Rivera, pictured by El Paso artist Jose Cisneros in full uniform, was commissioned by the Viceroy of New Spain to conduct an exhaustive military inspection of the northern Provinces of New Spain in 1724-1728. He reported on the condition of defenses, towns, missions, and Indian groups. His recommendations gave rise to a new presidial code. These reforms were ineffective, thus underscoring the Spanish crown's inability to control the northern frontier area. Rivera traveled down the Camino Real from Santa Fe to El Paso in the fall of 1726. (Baron Frederich Heinrich) Alexander von Humboldt never visited the northern provinces of New Spain but had available a wealth of information, including previous maps, documents, and personal communications with travelers. He produced his map of the route from Mexico City to Santa Fe, the Camino Real, in 1803 through reliance on the journals of Don Pedro de Rivera and his won astronomical observations. His maps and political essays were published in France in 1811. Places of the Heart In the 18th century, two great systems--the Rio Grande and the Camino Real--lay at the very heart of New Mexico. They nourished and supported its society and its economy. After the Pueblo Revolt and Spanish reconquest, the Native American pueblos and the Hispanics gradually withdrew from a line of confrontation and began a search for mutual accommodation. Each culture redefined its territorial boundaries and began to establish its own governmental structures and identity. In the course of the 18th century, the population of the Pueblo Indians declined, while the Hispanics increased, so that by the end of the century their numbers had multiplied seven-fold to an estimated 25,000 people. The basis of Hispanic society was an agrarian economy. An increasing number of farms and ranches were established on lands enriched by the periodic flooding of the river. In some areas they formed an unbroken line on either side of the trail. Waters for irrigation were drawn from the river by means of acequias. Wheat of superlative quality was grown and exported, and seeds, brought up the Camino Real, enormously increased the range and variety of edible plants, herbs and fruits. The iron tools--the plow point, the sickle and the hoe-- introduced by the Europeans were put to ever-increasing use. Like beads on a string, villages also sprang up alongside the Camino Real. These were populated by Hispanics as well as by Genizaros, captive Apache, Navajo, Ute, Wichita, Pawnee and Comanche Indians who had been raised in Hispanic households and lost their tribal identity. As successive generations of Hispanics were born and raised in New Mexico, the Hispanic society--its subtle patterns and rhythms, its customs and beliefs--became deeply rooted in New Mexico soil. It was as if, at the very tip of the great trunk of the Camino Real, a branch had flourished and flowered. The land had taken root in their hearts. The Churro Churro Sheep were first brought from Mexico to New Mexico by the Spanish conquistadores. Once well established, these sheep provided a new source of meat, furnished by-products such as wool, hides, pelts, tallow, and contributed substantially to the colonial economy. The churro, descended from the common sedentary sheep of southern Spain, adapted itself readily to the semiarid pastures of New Mexico and was able to substitute morning dew and succulent plants for drinking water. Small in stature, its meager fleece of coarse, long staple wool was well suited to hand processing, its meat unsurpassed. By mid-17th century, the number of livestock on New Mexico's ranges had increased significantly as a marketing connection for them was established down the Camino Real. Throughout colonial times New Mexico sheepmen found that towns in northern New Spain such as Parral, Chihuahua, and Durango provided a ready and a lucrative market for livestock. Slow to recover from the disruptions caused by the Pueblo Revolt, by 1750 sheep ranching had again become one of the region's most important industries. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries New Mexico drovers marketed hundreds of thousands of sheep in Chihuahua. As the number of flocks destined for Nueva Vizcaya increased, the caravans, known as cordones or conductas, were issued a manifest and became carefully organized and regulated. By the early 19th century, the sheep population increased dramatically. In 1831, in a single drive 30,000 head were herded down the Camino Real to Durango. Between 1835 and 1840 over 200,000 head of churro sheep were sent south. The Horse The first Spaniards arrived in New Mexico astride Spanish horses. These horses were descendants of the African Barb, whose ancestors dated back to Carthaginian and Roman times. More purebred Barb horses were introduced when the Moors conquered Spain in the 8th century. Long prized as fighting horses, they were brought to the New World aboard Spanish galleons. Juan de Onate was the first to bring brood mares to New Mexico. In subsequent years many more horses were brought up the Camino Real. In the years following the conquest Indian tribes captured thousands of horses from the Spanish. The horse eventually became widely dispersed among many Indian tribes. Quickly integrated into the Native American culture, the horse allowed the Indian to ride farther and flee faster. It enormously increased the Indians' hunting range, and became an item of barter and trade. The mounted Indian Scout painted by Alfred Jacob Miller conveys the sense of extravagant freedom and pride that typifies the Plains warriors. The horse was entirely strange to the Americas. The Indians had heard that a fierce people had come 'who travelled on animals that ate people.' This 16th-century petroglyph pictures a huge horse with paws like a lion. Found in a remote canyon in Sonora, Mexico, it may record the coming of one of the earliest Spanish expeditions. The Spanish custom of letting mares run in pasture or on open range led to the development of vast herds of feral horses, spread throughout the plains. In a tactic unique to New Spain, colorfully garbed vaqueros surround a band of wild horses and rope them with a reata. A mid-19th century hidalgo, riding his flaxen roan bolt upright, flicks the ash negligently from his cigarro. His saddle is a forerunner of today's 'western' saddle. Josiah Gregg wrote, "The horses are mustangs, wild on the prairies. Generally very small, they are quick, active and spirited ... some of their caballos de silla or saddle horses are remarkably well-trained. Modern Barb horses show the athletic ability, conformation and typical colors of this breed. Sturdy enough to bear the weight of a man in a full suit of armor, and themselves covered with bullhide armor, these horses still had the stamina to cover many miles a day. Riding descendants of the Spanish horse, three riders wear (left to right) the costume of the 17th century hidalgo, the 18th century vaquero, and the 19th century mountain man. In a 19th century engraving, the horse has improbably delicate legs, small head and high tail set. The equally elegant rider wears traditional tight-fitting pants with decorated side openings, a jacket, a broad-brimmed hat, and a serape for warmth. The Chihuahua Trail In the 18th century, once Chihuahua City developed as an important terminus, the northern section of the Camino Real became known also as the Chihuahua Trail. For New Mexico the Camino Real provided an economic life-line, an all-important tie to the centers of government and culture to the south. The necessities and luxuries brought north sustained and gave meaning to the Spanish Colonial frontier lifestyle and were critical to the well-being and self-esteem of the vecinos of far northern Nueva Vizcaya. The triennial Franciscan caravans of the 17th century were replaced after 1700 by annual wagon trains, conductas or convoys, run by private contractors. Supplies, equipment, household furnishings, and personal items from Europe, China and elsewhere in the New World were carried over this trail well into the mid-19th century. Beasts of burden, introduced by Europeans, as well as the cart and the wagon, made this trade possible. Burros were reserved for local traffic and for the breeding of mules. The major hauling along the Camino Real was done by ox-cart or atajo, mule train. The lumbering creaking ox-cart, drawn by teams of 6 to 20 oxen, could carry prodigious loads. The Sosa expedition brought the first carts to New Mexico in 1590. Onate brought carros, carretas, and carrozas in 1598. Carretas were made almost entirely of wood fastened with rawhide thongs and secured with wooden pegs. Their two huge wheels were sometimes rimmed with iron. Carretas survived in Mexico and New Mexico pueblos as local transportation for a long time. No example remains of the four-wheel carro, the vehicle perhaps most commonly utilized to transport heavy loads, which boasted iron fittings. A bullwhacker walked alongside the ox-train, prodding the oxen with a metal pointed goad, or cracking a huge whip over their heads. Mules, introduced from Mexico, were superior beasts of burden. They could carry 400 lbs. and cover 12-15 miles a day. An atajo of 200 animals was common with one arriero managing 40-50 animals. In the morning the grazing mules would be driven to the line of packs and blindfolded with a tapajos, a piece of embroidered leather. A pad of raw sheepskin would be thrown over its back, the a xerga, or woolen blanket, and an aparejo, leather pouches stuffed with straw. The carga, or load, was then bound in place with ropes and covered with a petate. The annual caravan went south every autumn. The date of its departure and the common meeting place--the plaza at Albuquerque, La Joya de Sevilleta or some other location--was announced by official bando and proclaimed in each locality by the town crier, accompanied by drum and bugle. On the appointed day a huge crowd would assemble and, accompanied by a military escort, set off to the south. In the assemblage would be the sick or wounded going to the hospital in Chihuahua, traders, government officials, friars and often entire families--including their servants--forming a complete cross- section of New Mexico society. On occasion 5-10% of the New Mexican population took the arduous trip. Secured in trunks, leather or hide sacks, were those efectos de pais, local products, which New Mexicans took south. These included pinon nuts, highly prized as delicacies, cotton mantas, roughly woven woolen cloth, the elkhides, deer and antelope skins, buffalo hides, pickled buffalo tongues, and tallow garnered in the trade with the Plains Indians, as well as teguas, leather moccasins, and Indian slaves. On the return trip merchants brought fancy textiles of all kinds, including silk and linen, hats, ironwork, and hardware. Their mule trains also brought back dyes of Brazilwood and indigo, drugs, paper, luxuries such as chocolate, sugar, and rice, mirrors, silverware, majolica dishes, and Chinese porcelain. Annual trade fairs, where traders could purchase what they needed for the coming year, were established in San Juan del Rio near Durango, and at el Valle de San Bartolome near Chihuahua. Smaller groups of traders would continue on to Sonora, Coahuila, and other parts of Mexico. New Towns For a long time, Santa Fe was the only royal villa in New Mexico. Coming into Santa Fe, the Chihuahua caravans would wend their way up el Camino del Alamo, pass through the outskirts of town until they arrived at Santa Fe's small main plaza. As an 1880's photograph attests, the Chihuahua trade continued until late in the 19th century. The trader Thomas James described Santa Fe in 1821. "The town is beautifully situated on a plain of dry and rolling ground at the foot of a high mountain, a small stream runs directly through the city." With the increase of population, more villages and clusters of ranches and farms came into being. In the first decade of the 18th century, two important villas or towns were also established--Albuquerque and Chihuahua City. These would serve as anchor points along the Camino Real, the northern section of which now became known as the Chihuahua Trail. Albuquerque was established in 1706, when Francisco Cuervo y Valdes obtained permission to settle a group of 30 families from Bernalillo in this location. "It will be the most prosperous villa," he assured the authorities, "for its growth of cattle and abundance of grain. Because of its fertility it will be named la Villa de Albuquerque de San Francisco Xavier del Bosque." In the 17th century, the Camino Real consisted of one road along the east bank of the river and one on the west bank which linked villages and provided alternate routes in time of flood. The German artist Rudolf Cronau sketched many locations he visited during an extensive tour of America in mid-19th century. The details of Cronau's drawing are reminiscent of a description of the town by another 19th century visitor. "Old Albuquerque is one of the quaintest, oldest fashioned towns in our whole country. It preserves its pristine originality. The streets are narrow, pavementless burro-trails of the old time. The language of the street is Spanish. The by-paths echo the tread of priests in their long black flapping petticoats and broad, black shovel hats." Valuable ore deposits were found at the mines of Santa Eulalia. In the boom which followed, two small adjoining camps were combined and designated La Villa Real de San Felipe el Real de Chihuahua in 1709. This town quickly eclipsed Parral as Nueva Vizcaya's leading mineral and commercial center. It played an increasingly pivotal role in the New Mexico trade. In the early 19th century, the American beaver trapper, James Ohio Pattie, traveled the length of the Chihuahua trail. He wrote "Chihuahua is the largest and handsomest town I have ever seen." In two mid-19th century engravings, the twin spires of Chihuahua's Cathedral can be seen from afar, while a smaller church on the outskirts of the city is shown in a romantic pastoral setting. In the 1880's the American photographer, John Hillers, traveled the Chihuahua Trail. His photograph of Chihuahua City reveals how much it had grown. Los Ricos In the course of the 18th century, as New Mexico enjoyed a greater political stability, material wealth also increased as profits from ranching and from trade with Mexico accumulated. As a result of increasing affluence a stratified social structure, in imitation of the economic and social patterns which prevailed in Mexico, also began to emerge. While the lower classes lived a humble life, and were employed in various cottage industries, people of the upper class dined on silver plates, with knives, forks, spoons, goblets and saltcellars of silver--all brought up the Camino Real from Mexico. Dress was important. This "Don" swaggers in his big hat and his elaborate costume, trimmed with silver buttons. George Kendall, an American traveler, reported enthusiastically on the charms of the senoritas. "The more striking beauties of the women of northern Mexico are their small feet, finely turned ankles, well-developed busts, small and classically formed hands, dark and lustrous eyes, teeth of beautiful shape and dazzling whiteness, and hair of that rich and jetty blackness ... they are joyous, sociable, kind-hearted creatures almost universally, liberal to a fault, easy and naturally graceful in the manners." Carl Nebel, who traveled extensively in Mexico, pictured these women wearing full skirts, loose fitting blouses and rebosos or tapalos. They also boasted filigree jewelry and large pendants, while the men kept their tobacco in silver containers. Though the houses were but humble adobe structures, the interiors were often decorated with mirrors and other decorations, such as a valuable golden crucifix. Though Santa Fe was not to look like this until the 19th century, when new architectural elements were introduced by the Americans, the character and tenor of life remained predominantly Hispanic. Colonial life could be dull and uneventful. Any excuse for a fandango was welcome. Wrote Lt. Abert in the mid-19th century: "In the evening we had a very merry dance at the fandango. The cuna resembles the Spanish dance of the United States. Then they have the valse, in which they pass the ladies under their arms. And we saw the jarabe, a dance in which the men show off their steps; it resembles our hornpipe ... The music consists of a violin, guitar and voices. The singers compose their songs impromptu and often the listeners burst forth into laughter at some happy stroke of the witty singers." The Mission Trail In the course of the 17th century there evolved at the heart of New Spain a refined and even sumptuous culture. Architecture, painting, sculpture, the minor arts, and music all flourished. They were intimately bound with the glorification of the Catholic faith. Although at first all of these arts were dependent on European prototypes, in time they developed a life and style of their own. It was this 18th century Mexican colonial or Viceregal art whose influence radiated from Mexico City and, travelling along the trade routes, reached the remoter provinces. In population centers along the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro elaborate new churches were built. These were graced with enormous gilded altars, furnished with paintings, statues, and other ecclesiastical objects. Many of these objects were carried laboriously up the Camino Real in ox carts. The Cathedral in Chihuahua City offers a good example of the Mexican Baroque style with its elaborate stone facade and magnificent interior vaulted space. However, farther to the north churches were simpler adobe structures on a smaller scale. In the 18th century, many fine paintings and carved wooden statues from the leading workshops in Mexico City, along with rich vestments, chasubles and chalices, were transported along the Camino Real to churches in the provinces. In New Mexico a number of 18th century Mexican paintings still can be seen in churches as at the Pueblo of Isleta. One of the finest examples of mexican Viceregal art is a painting of Our Lady of Guadalupe by the Rococo artist, Salcedo. The frame with its silver insets is original. Churches were built to honor Our Lady of Guadalupe in Santa Fe, in (present day) Ciudad Juarez and in Chihuahua City. The arts of Spain had given rise to indigenous Spanish Colonial arts in Mexico in the 17th and 18th centuries. In turn, this Mexican Colonial art served as parent to New Mexico Colonial art which flourished in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Mexican Colonial paintings, carvings, engravings and other artifacts brought up on the Camino Real served as prototypes for a local religious art which developed its own palette, its own materials and its own independent form of expression. The Presidio The presidio was established in New Spain as a means of protecting El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. By 1590, the presidio had become basic to frontier defense, and eventually 7 presidios were strung in a line from Mexico City to Zacatecas. By the 1720s 18 presidios served as defensive outposts along the northern frontier of New Spain. Military duties included supplying escorts for royal officials, supply trains and merchant caravans, and conducting relations with Indians. In 1766, the Marques de Rubi was ordered to inspect the presidios of the Interior Provinces. He was accompanied by Capitan Nicolas de Lafora, who kept a diary of the trip and eventually drew the most accurate and detailed map of the interior provinces, and by Sub-lieutenant Jose Urrutia, also a draftsman. They traveled 7,500 miles and inspected 23 presidios. Rubi's report reveled a situation far more critical than anyone realized--lack of discipline, corruption, poor equipment, and a frontier beleaguered by Ute, Apache, Comanche and Navajo raiders. Rubi proposed to place a line of defensive presidios from gulf to gulf, as well as one presidio in San Antonio, one in Santa Fe. His recommendations were officially adopted in 1771. A year later the control of the Interior Provinces was placed under a Commandant General, directly responsible to the King of Spain. The garrison at El Paso del Norte was moved to Carrizal to block the Indian war trail leading to Chihuahua City and to provide a staging area for campaign against Indians. Another garrison was moved to San Elizario. The weapons of the frontier soldier were the sword, the lance, muskets and pistols. Usually an excellent horseman, often poor and illiterate, he all too often lead a bleak and demanding life. The armor of the frontier soldier often proved inadequate for the desert and mountain warfare of the Interior Provinces. Late in 18th century peace was gradually restored to the region. However, with the coming of Mexican Independence and the government's preoccupation with its internal affairs, little attention could be paid to the defenses of the northern provinces. With the dismantlement of Spanish presidios, there was a return to Indian depredations. In the last quarter of the 18th century, able New Mexico Governor Juan Bautista de Anza established peaceful relationships with the Comanches on New Mexico's northern frontier. On To Taos In the late summer, at harvest time, when the air was still and clear, hundreds of Indians from various tribes came from all directions to the famous Taos trade fair. Located at a convenient crossroads, even in prehistoric times Taos may have been such a meeting place. It began to emerge as an important colonial trading center by the early 18th century. By 1723, it was officially proclaimed as an annual occurrence. The Governor rode up from Santa Fe to preside over the two-week event, to maintain order and adjudicate disputes among the traders. A month long Peace of God was proclaimed and warfare temporarily suspended so that travelers going and coming from the fair could do so in safety. To the fair came Navajos, Kiowas, Utes, Apaches and the richest and most powerful of the nomadic Indians, Comanches. The Comanches had originally been situated farther to the north but shifted their range to the south, in part to take advantage of the trade opportunities which the fair afforded. On the broad green meadows, Los Esteros, not far from Taos pueblo, the Indians and their families pitched their tipis until villages covered many acres. It must have presented a wildly colorful assortment of tribes! There was always a lack of reach cash and the usual form of exchange was barter or Cambalache. The Indians brought buffalo robes, pickled buffalo tongues, the elk and deer skins which they knew how to tan as soft as velvet. In trade they received such Spanish goods as iron wear, knives, cloth, beads, blankets and other items. The Indians also brought slaves and captives to be bought or ransomed. Thus the fair came to be called Rescate, or ransom. Most frequently women and children, these had been captured from other Indian tribes or abducted from European settlements. While trade was the principal objective, horse-racing and gambling also took place and the gathering often became noisy, wild and even dangerous. The trade at Taos was crucial to Camino Real commerce, for the goods traded here would be taken by mule train to Santa Fe and thence to Mexico in the annual caravan. Throughout the 18th century, the Taos trade fair continued as an important event. By 1821, however, it had virtually disappeared. Other economic factors intervened and the Comanches again shifted their range and no longer attended the fair, thus bringing to a close a brilliantly colorful chapter of New Mexico history. The Northernmost Frontier Although these photographs were taken in the late 19th- century long the Pecos, Taos and Abiquiu were important centers of trade, they record the lasting strength and inner dignity which must even earlier have characterized these various Plains Indians. "Aye! There was much to see!" The French owned the Louisiana Territory which lay adjacent to the eastern Spanish border. French parties traded with the Plains Indians and, in the 1740s and 1750s, a few reached New Mexico. In 1763, the Louisiana territory was ceded by France to Spain. Returned to France in 1800, it was finally sold to the United States in 1803, thus opening the way for the coming of the Anglo-Americans. In 1806, young Lieutenant Zebulon Pike of 6th US infantry was sent westward to explore the country of the Arkansas and Red Rivers. Wandering far from his intended course, he and his men spent a harrowing winter in Southern Colorado. Once news of his presence on Spanish territory became known, soldiers were sent to capture the party. Their arrival in Santa Fe in 1807, thin and bedraggled, was recreated by the painter, Frederic Remington. Treated both with suspicion and courtesy, Pike and his companions were marched down the Camino Real to Mexico for further interrogation by higher authorities, and eventually released. Pike's "Journals" was published in 1810. His exciting descriptions of his expedition into Spanish territory "spread like wildfire throughout the western country." Fur Trappers were among the first to explore the West in the early decades of the 19th century. Between 1820-40 they penetrated into the farthest reaches of the western wilderness. They worked for themselves and at a yearly rendezvous sold their furs to the highest bidder. Trappers and traders followed the Camino Real through Paso del Norte to Sonora and Chihuahua and penetrated the wild isolation that lay beyond the narrow fringes of civilization along the Rio Grande. Many of the desert and semi-desert rivers of the Southwest were major beaver trapping fields. The beaver (castor or nutria in Spanish), trapped to provide fur for fashionable top hats, was only saved from extinction when the vogue changed to those made of China silk. Rough and hardy, wearing fringed buckskin, a leather belt holding up a butcher knife and pistols, and a bullet pouch hung from his neck, the trapper courted danger every day. Indians, grizzly bears, quarrels, hunger, thirst, flood, storm, accident, and disease all took a terrible toll. James Ohio Pattie, who wrote of his life as a trapper in the Southwest between 1825-32, traveled up and down New Mexico's Camino Real numerous times. His was an incredibly adventuresome life. He knew the Southwest when it was solitary and pristine. He wrote of his travels, "Aye! There was much to see!" 1821 - Mexican Independence History does not record who first brought news of Mexico's Independence from Spain to New Mexico. Perhaps it was contained in secret documents brought north along the Camino by courier. Although it was long believed that New Mexico was isolated from main events in New Spain, in fact this province and its officials maintained close ties to the central government and the citizens of Mexico, and must have been aware of the political currents which gave rise to the Mexican War of Independence. In Europe, the French ruler Napoleon's designs against the Spanish crown caused an instability in the government which left the colonies without adequate direction. Liberal creoles and mestizos in Mexico, long dissatisfied with Spanish rule, saw in this an opportunity to rise up against the Spanish. The Catholic priest, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, on Sept. 16, 1810, called for a revolt from the pulpit of his small church. Soon the small army that he led swelled to tens of thousands. The rebellion ushered in a decade of violence and uncertainty, and trade patterns with the northern provinces were disrupted. The revolutionary forces suffered repeated defeats at the hands of the Spanish military. Hidalgo and other revolutionary patriots were captured and executed. The fight for liberty passed to other hands, until, in 1821, Agostin de Iturbide marched on Mexico City and triumphantly proclaimed Mexico's Independence from Spain. On December 26, 1821, word reached Santa Fe of Iturbide's triumphal entry into Mexico City. "Vivas resounded on all sides, patriotic harangues were heard and never had such delight and satisfaction reigned." In 1822, the Anglo-American trapper Thomas James described a more colorful celebration: On the fifth of February a celebration took place of the Mexican Independence. A flag was raised and canon fired. From all quarters of the city men and women came running to the public square. The people of the surrounding country also came in, and for five days the square was covered with Spaniards and Indians from every part of the province. During this whole time the city exhibited a scene of universal carousing and revelry, reckless dissipation and profligacy. The women wore jewelry and rebosos edged with gold. On the second day of the celebration, a large company of men and women from San Felipe, and Indian town four miles south of Santa Fe, marched into the city displaying the best formed persons I had yet seen in the country. The men were a head taller than the Spaniards around them, and their women were extremely beautiful, with fine figure and a graceful, elegant carriage. They were all tastefully dressed in cotton cloth of their own weaving, and decorated with coral beads of a brilliant red color. Many wore rich pearl necklaces and jewelry of great value. This Indian company danced very gracefully upon the public square to the sound of a drum and the singing of older members of their band. About the same time, the Peccase Indians came into the city dressed in skins of bulls and bears and they looked like the animals which they counterfeited so well that the people fled frightened at the appearance. Once Mexico gained independence from Spain, the repercussions were felt in New Mexico. New political and economic policies became realities. The restrictions against the Anglo Americans and trade with the east were relaxed. The Santa Fe Trail The Spanish authorities in New Mexico had closed their frontiers to Anglo Americans. With the coming of Mexican Independence, these regulations were relaxed and the Americans and their goods were welcomed. This marked the opening of the Santa Fe Trail. "Thus far we had marched in two lines only, but after crossing the Pawnee fork ... we marched four abreast. (Thus) the wagons can be thrown more readily into a condition of defense in case of attack." Josiah Gregg In 1831, Josiah Gregg, for reasons of health, joined a trader's caravan bound for Santa Fe. He wrote, "It was one of the brightest and most lovely days of the calendar, that our party set out from Independence." From 1831-40, Gregg crossed and recrossed the Great Plains accompanying merchant caravans, trading American dry goods and hardware for Mexican silver and mules. In the fall of 1833, Gregg traveled south along the Camino Real to the interior cities of Mexico. In 1844, Josiah Gregg's "Commerce of the Prairies" was published. It provided a detailed account of the Santa Fe Trade. Since he was a curious and observant traveler, it also contained many vivid descriptions of adventures and local customs and much prairie lore. "After William Becknell made the first trading expedition to Santa Fe in 1821, demonstrating the high profits that could be earned from such commerce, trading over the Trail swelled steadily in volume.... By 1824, however, so many eager Missourians had entered the trade that the New Mexico market became glutted with merchandise. As a result, it became necessary for the American merchants to seek new outlets in Chihuahua, Durango and other interior cities of Mexico." Marc Simmons River crossings were time-consuming and could be dangerous. at floodtide wagons often had to be ferried from shore to shore in dugout canoes or else their cargos unloaded, the wagons dismantled and carried across piece to be reassembled on the shore. "It was truly a scene for the artist's pencil to revel in. Even the animals seemed to participate in the humor of their riders who grew more and more merry and obstreperous as they descended toward the city. The arrival produced a great deal of bustle and excitement, "Los Americanos! Los carros! La entrade de las caravanas" were to be heard in every direction." "From the opposite ridge at the distance of a mile, a swarm of savages were seen coming at us at full gallop and their hideous whoop and yell soon resounded through the valley." Josiah Gregg "One current of Anglo American merchants, moving westward out of Missouri, carried freight to the Mexican market. A countercurrent flowed from Santa Fe eastward to the American settlements bearing Hispano traders who purchased goods direct from the Missouri wholesale houses and transported them in their own caravans to New Mexico and other northern provinces." Marc Simmons "By 1850, or shortly thereafter, the majority of private freight caravans were owned and operated by New Mexicans or Mexican nationals." Marc Simmons Once the Santa Fe Trail merchants reached beyond Santa Fe into northern Mexico, the Santa Fe Trail and the Camino Real/Chihuahua Trail merged into a single long mercantile route. As we looked down the river this morning we saw the waters sparkling in the sun, for the rapid current makes miniature waves that catch the light Abert, J.W. Travel Diary, 1846. Lt. James W. Abert of the Topographical Engineers on duty with the Army of the West after that hard march in the winter of 1846-47, wrote "I wonder at myself I could have borne so much." Rustic crosses, held in place by piles of stones, were "thickly scattered over the country from one end of it to the other." Placed alongside the trail these did not mark a grave but commemorated the site of a traveler's death. "On the plains [when] a group of traders is attacked by Indians, they form a corral of 7 wagons, into which they bring the animals." Josiah Gregg "Gold dust and nuggets from the placer deposits in the Ortiz Mountains south of Santa Fe and silver pesos from Chihuahua flowed in a bright stream to the coffers of the Missouri wholesalers." Marc Simmons "A [Santa Fe Trader] arrived here a few days since... Wheat, he states, is raised in great abundance on the Rio del Norte and transported on mules to Guaymas and other ports on the east side of the Gulf of California, from whence it is shipped, in exchange for silk, tea, and sugar, to China and India." The Franklin, Missouri Intelligenser, August 5, 1815. "Each teamster vies with his fellows who shall be soonest ready; it is a matter of boastful pride to be the first to cry out--'All's set!'. 'All's set,' is directly responded from every quarter--the cracking of whips, the trampling of feet, the occasional creak of the wheel, the rumbling of the wagons, (provide) a scene of exquisite confusion." Josiah Gregg "The firing still continued--the yells grew fiercer and more frequent; everything betokened the approach of a terrible conflict." "During the height of the bustle and uproar, a Mexican servant was observed leaning with his back against a wagon, and his fusil elevated at an angle of forty-five degrees; cocking and pulling the trigger without ceasing and exclaiming at every snap, "Carajo! no sirve!" "The wagons most in use upon the prairies are manufactured in Pittsburgh, they are usually drawn by eight mules or the same number of oxen. At an earlier period, the horse was more frequently used." Josiah Gregg "Our route lay over uninterrupted prairie for 500 miles. This was my last trip across the Plains.... Since that time I have striven to reconcile myself to the even tenor of civilized life in the United States.... Yet I am almost ashamed to confess that scarcely a day passes without my experiencing a pang of regret that I am not now roving at large upon those western plains.... The wild, unsettled and independent life of the Prairie Trader makes perfect freedom from nearly every kind of social dependence and absolute necessity of his being.... The exchange of this untrammeled condition--this sovereign independence, for a life in civilization.... "Those who have lived pent up in our large cities know but little of the broad, unembarrassed freedom of the Great Western Plains." Josiah Gregg Once in camp fuel was gathered, stock put out to graze, and laundry washed. Night, under a canopy of stars, was a time for story telling and singing. Troubadours accompanied each caravan and composed corridos, which recounted memorable incidents on the journey. "We had a severe time crossing the sands." J.W. Abert In the 19th century, accounts of life in the west began to appear in Eastern publications. "Here, my child, is water!" depicts a imaginary heart-wrenching scenario. An illustration from Harper's Weekly, "Life on the Rio Grande" strays even farther from the truth. The Pittsburgh wagon was a modified version of the famous Conestoga. It was later replaced by smaller vehicles--road wagons and dearborns. However, once the Mexicans levied sizable duties on each wagon load, the larger Murphy wagon was most widely used. Susan Shelby Magoffin was the first woman to write of her experiences on the Santa Fe and Chihuahua Trails. The 18-year- old bride of trader Samuel Magoffin, she arrived in Santa Fe in 1846, two weeks after its conquest by the American forces, and then proceeded down the Camino Real into northern Mexico. Magoffin's journal, "Down the Santa Fe Trail and Into Mexico," is full of personal details and accurate observations. It is one of the very few accounts written by a woman about travel along these trails. Three women accompanied the Coronado expedition and 26 came the Onate party. However, in the long history of the Camino Real women were rarely perceived as participating in the larger events of the day. Artist Jose Cisneros has honored the unsung role Hispanic women played in Camino Real history. One notorious Hispanic woman--Santa Fe's cigar-smoking gambler Dona Gertrudis Barcelo--traveled the trail many times. Her family came to New Mexico from Sonora, Mexico. During the 1830s and 1840s, this wealthy and somewhat shady lady often traveled the Camino Real, bringing back silver and gold from Mexico for her gambling saloon in Santa Fe. "The common hazards of the trail drew men of different ethnic backgrounds together and prompted a spirit of courtesy and mutual respect. An impression of cooperation rather than rivalry, an atmosphere of cordial relationships and trust, existed among the New Mexicans and the Anglo Americans involved in the Santa Fe trade." Marc Simmons In 1825, 25 wagons crossed the prairies; from then until 1843, 30-130 made the annual trip; by 1843, the number had swelled to 230 wagons; in 1846, 300 arrived in the wake of the Army of the West. The War with Mexico, 1846 On April 24, 1846, after a border clash near the Rio Grande, the Mexican General Arista declared that he considered the "hostilities commenced." The United States official declared war on Mexico on May 13. The grand prize sought and won by the victorious Americans was a vast empire stretching from Texas to the Pacific Ocean. Once war was declared, the Army of the West was hastily organized at Fort Leavenworth. Under commander Stephen Watts Kearny, the army left Kansas in June, accompanied by hundreds of wagons owned by Santa Fe Traders who were seeking its protection. Kearny and his troops passed through Las Vegas, Tecolote and San Miguel, and on August 18, 1846, they were able to enter and take possession of Santa Fe without having fired a single shot. By sunset the American Flag flew over Santa Fe. A lavish fandango was held in honor of the new government. It "came off remarkably well, and was attended by a great crowd of males and females." In September, Kearny marched rapidly down Camino Real to Tome, mistakenly believing that Mexican forces were gathering there to oppose him. Upon his return to Santa Fe, he established the new government. The progress of the Army of the West as it marched past the Pueblo of San Felipe was recorded by artist John Mix Stanley. Kearny then marched south again, branching off the Camino Real near present day Truth or Consequences, destined for California. Santo Domingo Indian Larry Littlebird's modern day ride recalls a memorable display witnessed by the American troops. As they approached Santo Domingo Pueblo, all the young men in brilliantly colorful war dress performed warlike maneuvers on horseback. "Altogether one of the most thrilling exhibitions ever witnessed!" wrote Lt. Henry Smith Turner. A caravan of 300 traders' wagons, carrying goods worth over a million dollars, was camped alongside the Camino Real, nervously awaiting news of the political situation before continuing to Chihuahua with their merchandise. Doniphan's Missouri volunteers were rowdy, ragged and insubordinate. Spoiling for a fight, they finally got their wishes, for on Christmas Day they met and defeated the Mexican Army at Brazito on the Camino Real. This was the only battle of the Mexican War fought on New Mexico soil. The Mexican Governor Manuel Armijo had fled down the Camino Real to the interior vastness of Mexico. A rare daguerreotype of about 1847 reveals the shadowy forms of the American Volunteer Army deep in the interior of Mexico. The Mexican War was concluded in 1848, and under the terms of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, consummated Feb. 2, 1848, Mexico ceded part of southern Colorado, New Mexico, and California to the United States. A regiment under the command of Col. Alexander Doniphan enters the Jornada del Muerto, on its way south to reinforce General Wool's troops in Mexico. "Colonel Doniphan is six feet four inches high--weighs about 240 pounds--raw-boned--his hair is sort of sandy red and sticks out something like porcupine quills, and his men say he is not afraid of the Devil or the God that made him." "Our Day is Finished" Once New Mexico became an American territory, the government undertook to protect its territorial citizens from hostile Indians. In 1851, the whole system of defense in New Mexico was revised. A number of forts--Conrad, Craig, McRae, and Selden-- were built to protect travelers along the Camino Real. Once the Indian threat had passed, the American forts were, one by one, abandoned. Now they are ruins scattered on the desert plains. Military life was a delicate balance between danger and tedium. Apaches out on the desert plains, and Navajos ranged freely, pausing occasionally to raid the scattered river settlements and the merchant caravans plying the Camino Real. The fiercest attacks in southern New Mexico and northern Mexico were mounted by the Apaches. These were a constant threat to settlers and travelers alike. In 1880, one harassed civilian complained, "During fourteen year's residence in New Mexico I have never seen such dangerous times." A pattern of never-ending raids and skirmishes marked the interactions of the New Mexico garrisons with the Indian warriors. The nomads knew the wild terrain as no settlers or soldiers ever could. The most famous campaigns in southern New Mexico and Arizona, in northern Sonora and Chihuahua were led by Geronimo, although the names most closely associated with New Mexico were Victorio, Nana and Mangas Coloradas. To the military the Apache seemed treacherous and murderous, though their tactics were admired. Geronimo, Victorio, and Nana were all proud victims of a changing time. Armed with rifles, bows and arrows, lances with flint points and protected with shields ornamented with leopard skins and feathers, they fought with mounting fury to defend their stoic and demanding way of life and the country they had long been free to roam. Photography appeared just as these great warriors were about to vanish, allowing the camera's eye to capture poignant images. They seem so still! as if already overshadowed by the reservations to which they would ultimately be confined! For their way of life was doomed. The telegraph, the railroad, and other technological innovations had already begun to shrink the wilderness vastness. When a heliograph was placed on Robledo's highest peak, settlers could be warned of the approach of Indian raiders. Geronimo lamented, "If the white man can speak with light, the Indian can do little. Our day is finished." Southern New Mexico/Texas The Camino Real had long crossed over wild uninhabited land in the southern part of New Mexico. With the greater security provided by American forts and with the pacification of the Apache Indians, this area witnessed a growth in population and the establishment of new settlements. The Jornada del Muerto had long been a dreaded barrier for travelers. "Formerly the distance across this plain from water to water was so great that the unsuspecting emigrant, or unwary traveler often suffered extreme torture, or perished from thirst on the journey, should be even escape the attack of hostile Indians." In 1868, when Jack Martin drilled a well near the old Camino Real campsite of Aleman, a radical change came to this land characterized as "practically worse than useless." It opened the door to cattle ranching and offered fresh hope to those anxious to take up homesteading in southern New Mexico. An aerial view of Elephant Butte Reservoir, looking south from a point near Paraje, an old Camino Real campsite. The north end of the Fray Cristobal Mountains is visible in the upper center of photo. The abandoned village of Cantarecio is in the right foreground. The old Santa Fe-Chihuahua Trail is along the left side. The earliest reference to the Dona Ana paraje (camp site), is Governor Otermin's notation that he camped here on Feb. 4, 1682. However, no dwelling existed before 1842, when settlers moved north from El Paso to settle and farm the rich bottom lands of the Mesilla Valley. Early habitations were mostly jacales, built of upright sticks chinked with mud. Before 1680 present day Ciudad Juarez was a struggling missionary outpost. In 1680 refugees from the Pueblo Revolt settled here, although a number chose to return with Vargas when he reoccupied northern New Mexico twelve years later. By mid- 18th century it provided a significant link between upper New Mexico and Nueva Vizcaya to the south. By 1773 its population had risen to around 10,000 and it was a recognized agricultural and ranching center. "The settlement is by far the most flourishing town we have been in ... with finely cultivated fields of wheat and other small grain, and also numerous vineyards from which were produced the finest wine ever drank." Lt. Zebulon Pike, 1807 In 1849, Simeon Hart built a mill on the northern bank of the Rio Grande near the dam where the falls of the river provided water for many fertile acres. The entire wheat crop from both sides of the river was ground here and supplied flour to all the people and to the military fort. Established after the signing of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Mesilla was to become a cultural, marketing and political center. Here it is shown in mid-19th century as a pacific adobe village. "The Organ mountains, though somber and barren, ... near Mesilla look at a distance like an immense pipe organ ... the white rocks of which they are composed glisten in the sunlight like polished metal," wrote a 19th century traveler. Las Cruces was founded when a request was made to the American military to lay out a town "in truly American fashion." In 1828 a number of travelers, massacred on the Camino Real, were buried by a company of Mexican soldiers who happened by. Their common grave was marked with three crosses--thus the name, Las Cruces. Under the terms of the Gadsden Purchase enacted on Dec. 30, 1853, the United States acquired from Mexico all the land in the southern part of the Territory of Arizona and New Mexico south of the Gila River, thus finally defining the boundary between these two countries. The Civil War In 1861, Civil war broke out, dividing the United States into Union and Confederate factions. Early in 1862, a large Confederate force entered New Mexico. When Texas seceded from the Union, the Union commander and his forces surrendered and Ft. Bliss at El Paso was evacuated. Reoccupied by Confederate forces it served as a staging area to mount a campaign against Ft. Fillmore, near present-day Las Cruces. Fort Fillmore was abandoned without a fight and the entire garrison and supplies were captured by Confederates. Mexilla was then named capital of the newly proclaimed Confederate Territory of Arizona. Meanwhile, at Ft. Craig, 60 miles to the north, Union commander Colonel Edward Canby had begun reinforcing his garrison. Toward the end of 1861, Brig. General Henry H. Sibley arrived at Ft. Bliss with a large detachment of troops, with whom he then marched to a spot near abandoned Ft. Thorn, north of present day Hatch. On Feb. 7, 1862, with approximately 2,500 men and fifteen canons, Sibley moved northward along the Camino Real to engage the enemy. Awaiting him at Ft. Craig was Union commander Canby, commanding 3,800 men, including Colonel Christopher "Kit" Carson's 1st NM Volunteer regiment of 1,000 mostly Hispanic soldiers from northern New Mexico. Battling fierce snow and dust storms, the Confederate army advanced on Ft. Craig on February 13. After several days of moves and countermoves, one of the largest battles of the Civil War erupted. Through the first half of the day, Feb. 21, the battle raged indecisively among the cotton wood thickets around Valverde, a famed campground on the Camino Real. In the afternoon furious charges were mounted from both sides. Eventually the Union forces were forced to retreat behind the walls of Ft. Craig. Both sides had suffered severe casualties. The Confederates, short of supplies, could not remain any longer to lay siege to Ft. Craig. They moved northward, again following the Camino real, until they reached Albuquerque, where Gen. Sibley established his headquarters. On Mar. 28, 1862, Union and Confederate forces met again at the Battle of Glorieta. This time the Southern army was defeated and eventually forced to retreat back to Texas. "Hurry ... you are missing golden opportunities" After the close of the Mexican War and again at the conclusion of the Civil War, the U.S. Government undertook systematic explorations of its conquered territories. The Fremont, Hayden, Wheeler and Powell scientific expeditions were launched to map this unknown land and to assess its resources. A new era of knowledge and awareness of the American West was ushered in. Expeditionary parties, composed of soldiers, scientists, mule skinners, packers, laborers and guides, also included artists and photographers. Among the expeditionary photographers were Timothy O'Sullivan, William Henry Jackson, and John K. Hillers. Choosing a colorful if dangerous life, they visited new places and recorded them in a way never before seen. The photographers of this period generally used the collodion or wet place process. The glass plate had to be used while still wet, lest the emulsion lose its photosensitivity. It was placed in the camera, exposed for several seconds, then rushed to the "dark tent," to be developed and fixed. The entire process was both delicate and cumbersome. Remarkably many beautiful images were obtained under primitive field conditions. John K. Hillers accompanied the Wheeler Expedition in New Mexico in the period 1871-74, as its official photographer. He traveled down the Camino Real, recording life in many in many of the Indian pueblos such as Sandia. The work of the scientific expeditions was included in numerous publications, which for the first time included photographic images. The expeditionary photographer had come west just in time to document many cultures and ways about to vanish. Ferdinand Hayden urged them to "Hurry! You are missing golden opportunities!" In the late 19th century, the way was opened to the daguerreotypist and the commercial photographer as new settlements in the West afforded them an opportunity to make a living. Some established portrait studios, others traveled the countryside as itinerant makers of stereoscopic images--meant to be seen through a special viewer which gave an illusion of three- dimensional depth. The earliest photographers known by name in Santa Fe were Nicolas Brown and his son, Henry William Brown. They opened a studio after their arrival from St. Louis in 1866. They were to travel up and down the Camino Real a number of times. Their first trip took them to Chihuahua where they also established a business. In 1868, Nicolas returned to Santa Fe, followed a year later by his son. In 1870, Nicolas made a second trip south, while Henry, who may also have traveled to Parral in Mexico, is known to have spent two years photographing in El Paso around 1884. Artists and the American West Artists were in the vanguard of the westward movement. George Catlin, Alfred Jacob Miller, Karl Bodmer and others drew unparalleled images of Plains Indian life. John Mix Stanley (1814-72) was one of the first to picture the Southwest. He had joined a trading expedition, and arrived in Santa Fe shortly after Kearny's conquest of the city. Appointed its official artist, Stanley left with part of the army for California in 1846. Heading down the Camino Real he passed San Felipe Pueblo and at Isleta Pueblo sketched 'a very beautiful woman.' Near the Fray Cristobal Mountains, the Army of the West left the Camino Real and headed west, through the Mimbres Valley. Stanley sketched along the way. Many of his drawings were included as lithographs in Emory's "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance" (sic) published in 1848. The lithographs failed to do justice to the quality of the original drawings, most of which were unfortunately destroyed in a fire. The few that survive attest to his skill as an artist. The Kern brothers, Benjamin, Richard and Edward, accompanied the 1848 Fremont expedition as scientist and artists. After a dreadful winter lost in the San Juan Mountains, the Kerns finally stumbled into Taos. Richard Kern left behind a stunning visual record of his travels in New Mexico and down the Camino Real into Mexico. When the railroad made the journey more accessible, two great artists visited New Mexico: Peter Moran and his more famous brother, Thomas. Peter was in Taos, Santa Fe, Jemez, and Santo Domingo in the 1880s and again in 1890. He was fascinated by the architecture, the animals, and the picturesque quality of the Southwest. His brother Thomas did not feel the same fascination for New Mexico, preferring Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon. On a trip to New Mexico in 1881, in the company of William Henry Jackson, the famous photographer, Moran sketched the old adobe church at Ojo Caliente. A decade later, on his way to the Grand Canyon, he stopped to make this stunning painting of Acoma Pueblo, with Spanish Conquistadores riding across a romantic, colorful New Mexico landscape, thus bringing back in memory those who had first opened the Camino Real. The Expressmen The earliest mail along the Camino Real depended on the annual caravans to carry both ordinary and official mail, although special messengers were used for urgent dispatches. After 1766 the postal service was administered in New Spain by the royal treasury. Each post office had its own mail pouch and postal seal and couriers were permitted to accept mail along the road at haciendas and other points. In 1783 Governor de Anza established a regular mail delivery between Santa Fe and El Paso. By 1805 the postal service was operating on a fairly regular schedule. Ten years later a monthly postal service had been established. By 1840 Indian depredations disrupted the service. "The buckboard mail has stopped running and mail is being carried on horseback on account of the danger." With the stagecoach came men who preyed on them. "Whereas the coach containing the U.S. Mails and Express was on the 18th robbed near Alamillo (on the Camino Real) in Socorro County and whereas it is known that three persons were engaged in the said robbery who are believed to be desperate men. Now therefore, I, G.B. Axtell, Gov. of said Territory do hereby offer a reward of $500.00 for the apprehension of said men to be taken alive if possible..." New Mexico, April 30, 1877. No public coaches ever came up Camino Real during the Spanish and Mexican administrations; however, late in the 19th century stagecoaches began to appear in New Mexico, and they carried the mail. One of the first stage lines to arrive in New Mexico came via San Antonio and El Paso. "Big Foot" Wallace, formerly a courier on the Santa Fe Trail and subsequently a Chihuahua trader, was employed by Henry Skillman, the first contractor of record to transport mails between San Antonio, Texas and Santa Fe in 1850. Skillman, in September, 1852, began offering passenger service every other month in 'good, comfortable spring carriages' between Santa Fe and El Paso. On alternate months a 'small train of light wagons' gave the communities monthly service. Thomas F. Bowler of Santa Fe became proprietor of the interior New Mexico route which closely followed the ancient Camino Real. A Way Bill for this route included the names of passengers, their destination, and the amount they paid for their trip. By all accounts, a prolonged stage ride was crowded, uncomfortable, and often cold. Passengers sat bolt upright trying to catch a few winks of sleep. Wheels of Wood & Iron Even after the coming of the railroad in the late 19th century, the old Camino Real continued to be used by many different kinds of wheeled vehicles. In some places the Camino Real retained its romantic, rural character. A remarkable assortment of wheeled vehicles--an ambulance, a mud wagon, a stage coach, the descendant of a Mexican carreta-- are all parked in front of a hotel in Las Cruces. A winsome burro-drawn cart! This traveling Circus which featured people in Mickey-Mouse ears and a Pie-faced Lion, was photographed in Las Vegas in 1898. Hopefully it continued onto Santa Fe and down the Camino Real. It recalls those circus troupes of Maromeros which earlier traveled up from Mexico. Surveyors for the railroad, for the telegraph, as well as crews such as the one which accompanied the photographer William Henry Jackson, must often have camped alongside the Camino. Out on lonelier stretches of roads, wagons plied the route. The man with a boat on his wagon was obviously prepared for any contingency! The Atchinson, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad began running to Las Vegas on July 4, 1879. By February 16, 1880 it had reached Santa Fe; by April 15, Albuquerque; and by the end of the year the southern part of the state. It was joined to the Ferrocarril Central Mexicano from El Paso del Norte which stretched to Chihuahua and eventually onto Mexico City. While this photo of laying track was taken in Arizona many similar scenes must have taken place as well in New Mexico. Trains equipped with reclining-seat chair cars and luxurious Pullman sleeping cars reduced the once arduous journey to a comfortable interlude. The old Camino Real gradually fell into disuse and soon was lost from memory. The Trail Today The railroad, the automobile and the beginnings of the modern highway system brought enormous changes in their wake. The first highway in New Mexico was designated #1 and called El Camino Real. Now modern paved highways carry the north-south commerce that once traversed the historic Camino by foot, horseback, muletrain and in the great colonial carretas pulled by teams of oxen. As part of the 1992 Columbus Quincentenary Commemorations, the New Mexico Highway and Transportation Department, in collaboration with the Camino Real Project, has placed a series of distinctive highway markers on those routes which most closely parallel the ancient Camino Real, thus inviting the modern traveler to revisit the past in imagination. Except where covered by modern roads and developments, vestiges of the Camino Real remain imprinted on the landscape, often defined by a wide corrugated swale etched by the passage of countless wagons and mule trains. Remnants of the trail, which all lie on private property, still exist. Archeologist Michael Marshall was given special permission to visit and study these sites. The configuration of the trail itself and the artifacts scattered nearby provide indispensable knowledge about this fascinating aspect of New Mexico history. This exhibit was developed by the Camino Real Project in cooperation with the Latin American Institute, University of New Mexico, with generous support from the National Endowment for the Humanities. Project Director/Chief Curator: Gabrielle G. Palmer, Ph.D. Project Coordinator: Theo R. Crevenna Assistant Curators: Barbara Remington, Tim Rogers Program Specialist: Vicki Madrid Nelson Exhibit Designer: William Field, Santa Fe, New Mexico. Exhibit Production: Unified Arts, Albuquerque, New Mexico. Additional support was received from The New Mexico Endowment for the Humanities, the New Mexico Highway and Transportation Department, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and the U.S. Bureau of Land Management. The contributions of the following scholars are gratefully acknowledged (in alphabetical order): Don E. Alberts, John O. Baxter, Mary Jean Cook, Vernon J. Glover, Rick Hendricks, Julia Jordan, John Kessell, Morton Liebman, Michael Marshall (Chief Project Archeologist), Gilbert W. Merkx, Carroll L. Riley, Richard Rudisill, Albert H. Shroeder, Dan Scurlock, Marc Simmons, David H. Snow, Olivia Tsosie, David R. Warren, and Robert R. White